Seven point seven zero. That’s the new Oceania women’s open speed record, and it belongs to a 15-year-old from Tauranga.
Mila Piatek set it in her quarter-final at the World Climbing Youth Championship in Arco, Italy, then went on to win U17 women’s speed in 7.77s on 22 July. It’s the open record she broke, not the youth one.
“I’m speechless,” she said afterwards.
Mila climbs with the Bay of Plenty Sport Climbing Association (BOPSCA) in Mount Maunganui, coached by Rob Moore. Moore’s programme now has two youth world champions. Julian David took U20 men’s speed gold in 2023, and Sarah Tetzlaff came through the same programme before representing New Zealand alongside David at the Paris 2024 Olympics.
“Mila has shown that hard work and consistency, in a programme of wrap-around support, breed success. I couldn’t be more proud,” Rob said.
More than 20 New Zealanders made the trip to Arco to support the team, with hundreds more watching along from home.
Climbing New Zealand president Dion Clapperton put it this way: “Speed climbing has become the fastest growing discipline within the sport. Rob’s vision for international representation just keeps bearing fruit. Two world youth champs, two Olympians, and a solid pipeline of new talent coming through. New Zealand is standing out on the world stage.”
The championship wrapped up in Arco on 25 July. Congratulations to Mila and the whole NZ team. Great work!