Selection Event for 2022 (for climbers seeking World Youth Championship selection)
The selection event will be held on Sunday the 19th of June at Extreme Edge Panmure (this is the day after NIBS at BoulderCo). The event will include Lead and Bouldering on the same day, the event is likely to run from 8am until 4pm on the day depending on numbers.
There will be a $50 fee to enter to partly over the organising and hosting of this event.
As per the Climbing New Zealand Selection Policy we are notifying climbers of the format for this event, as it differs from a normal national championship event.
Bouldering Format
Each category will complete 4 Boulders in IFSC Qualifiers format. From isolation, 5 minutes on, 5 minutes off, rotating through the 4 Boulders. Normal IFSC scoring will be used, with ranking of the athletes from the event providing points into the final selection process set out in the Selection Policy. There will be no finals.
Lead Format
Each category will complete 2 lead routes in on-sight format (no forerunner or forerunner video, 2 minutes to observe the climb, climbers remain in isolation until they climb, 6 minute limit on each climb). Time will not be used as a factor to separate climbers who are tied on an individual climb.
Scoring and ranking will be as per an IFSC qualification round with each climber ranked in each climb and the rankings combined to provide an overall ranking that translates to points that are then used in the final selection process as per the Selection Policy.
Please note that there are changes to schedule from previous events:
Saturday includes Youth D, Youth C, Opens and Para-climbing. Note: All categories may start from as early as 8.30am.
Sunday includes Youth B, Youth A, Juniors and Masters.
A more detailed timetable will be posted once this is confirmed with the route-setters.
Please share this within your clubs gyms and communities.
International Events
We have the following international dates confirmed:
Australian Youth Championships, Sydney 3rd to 5th June
IFSC World Youth Championships, Dallas, USA 22nd to 31st August
IFSC Oceania Championships, New Caledonia 17th to 23rd of October
Australian Youth Championships from the 3rd to 5th of June 2022, Sydney, Australia.
Categories: Youth D, Youth C, Youth B, Youth A, Juniors
Disciplines: Lead, Speed, Bouldering. Youth D is on top rope.
Sport Climbing Australia have confirmed the date for their National Youth Championships being the 3rd to the 5th of June 2022. The CNZ Committee wishes to offer competing at this event to our athletes. The event is limited to 2 NZ athletes per category per discipline. Athletes who were selected into the CNZ Youth Development Squads in 2021 and 2022 have been contacted and invited to submit expressions of interest to be selected for this event. Given the timeframe a full selection process for the event is not possible.
IFSC Oceania Championships, 17th to 23rd of October, Noumea, New Caledonia
Disciplines: Lead, Speed, Bouldering. Youth D is on top rope.
This event will be open to all NZ athletes who have been selected into the 2022 development squad. There are no specific category limits. As per the selection policy those who have been selected in one discipline can also be selected in a second discipline. The process for being selected into an additional discipline is for this event is to be finalise.
Selection criteria to compete in Speed at this event is also to be finalized.
As this event is also open to Masters athletes, a selection policy and process will be developed for Master athlete selections.
Note:
Offers to compete at this event will be made after the 2022 Lead and Para-climbing Championships once development squad selections are completed, and process for additional disciplines is finalized.
Categories will be the age groups as per the current 2021/22 season.
Athletes will represent NZ and wear NZ uniforms.
La Sportiva Youth and Masters Bouldering Championships 2022 2023.
To accommodate the Oceania event timing, we are looking to re-schedule the La Sportiva Youth and Masters Bouldering Championships to the 3rd and 4th of December after NCEA exams (NCEA Exams run from 7th Nov & 2nd Dec) Previously was scheduled for the 29th and 30th of October.
IFSC World Youth Championships, Dallas, Texas, 22nd to 31st of August.
We will also be following up with planning on the World Youth Championships very soon as there will not be a lot of time between finalizing selections and the event. We may also seek expressions of interest for this event to assist with planning.
Further we will be seeking expressions of interest from our community to support the 2022 Youth Team.
CNZ Selection Event for 2022 This event will need to be held mid-June to select athletes to compete at the World Youth Championships.
Other announcements in case you have missed them.
Climbing New Zealand Speed Programme Meet the squad and the journey to date. See the website post here:
After the Tokyo Olympics Speed climbing was separated off and has its own medal for Paris24, a proposal was put forward to the Climbing NZ committee to establish a High Performance climbing program just focusing on speed climbing. The idea would be that with the Olympic climbing wall at Blake Park in Mount Maunganui already there and with access to many very talented coaches in the area that we had an opportunity to see if we can get a NZ climber to the Olympics in Paris24 and LA28. The catch was that to be in the program the athletes would have to forego any training in the 2 other disciplines to only concentrate on Speed climbing for the next 2+ years. Obviously, this wasn’t going to suit many climbers, if any! It seems though, that the pull of the Olympics is too great for some and after going through a selection process, we finally whittled it down to 6 eager athletes. The program was written up with very clear structure and specific goals. It outlines the pathway we are trying to take to get to Paris and the work that we need to put in to get there, A Lot! I presented this document to High Performance Sport NZ and they were very excited. After a whirlwind few weeks and a tonne of learning about how the HP environment works, we were rewarded by receiving funding for the program heading to Paris and hopefully LA. The amount of funding is not huge when comparing to other sports, but what is the most value in my opinion is the recognition of our sport through that process. With the funding comes other opportunities that we have not been privy too in the past. We get to work with specific speed and power coaches, speed and agility coaches, get state of the art testing equipment to test explosive power and where athletes have specific weaknesses, mental coaches and more. The HPSNZ funding has really opened doors that were only there for the Major sports in the past. One of the really exciting coaches that we are working with is Ola Rudinska the Olympic speed record holder form Poland. Ola is our Beta coach and works remotely on each athletes beta from videos I send her of the climbers. This has made really amazing changes. Currently we are 7 weeks into the program. Unfortunately the ICC woman’s cricket World Cup meant that our training was very interrupted for 4 weeks, but we all pushed through and are out the other side back on the Speedwall full time. We have specific objective goals to hit every 6 months and already we are tracking faster than projected. Its an exciting program for the athletes and I’m really stoked with their dedication and determination. Hopefully this exciting discipline will get more coverage as we start to do a little better and the program will grow and develop. As speed climbing becomes more popular in other regions, I’m really sure we will start to see more athletes joining the program for LA28 and hopefully onto Brisbane32.
Introducing the Athletes on the program;
Julian David, current Open Male record holder 8.74 seconds Sarah Tetzlaff, current Open Female record holder 11.14 seconds Flynn Chisholm ranked #2 Open Males Jorja Rangi, ranked #2 Open Females Ned Johnston, ranked #4 Open Males Abby Gebert, (not able to compete at nationals but current Youth B record holder)
To follow along on our journey, check out our insta page @speedclimbingnzl
Climbing New Zealand is excited to see NZ Paraclimber Rachel MÄia competing in all three 2022 Paraclimbing World Cups. Â
It is nearly three years since Rachel last competed internationally. She was unable to secure MIQ to participate in the 2021 season but has continued training full time and now looks forward to spending two months overseas aiming for the podium. Â
The World Cup dates are as follows: Salt Lake City (USA)Â 24-25 May Innsbruck (AUT) 21-23 June Villars (SUI) 8-9 July
In the 2019 and 2018 World Championships Rachel placed 4th. This year she competes with a prosthetic for the first time, and double the years of climbing experience. We hope to see her in the finals again this year, these will be live streamed and links will be posted on Social Media when relevant.Â
Rachel will be following IFSC guidelines by avoiding gatherings and isolating where possible for the 2 weeks prior to her departure on May 18, so we will not see her at New Zealand Nationals but wish her all the best. Â
We are currently accepting registrations for the La Sportiva National Lead and Para-climbing Championships, Extreme Edge Panmure, 14th and 15th of May 2022.
Sunday: Youth B, Youth A, Juniors, Masters: Qualifiers and Finals We will publish a more detailed programme once the setters have confirmed the route plan and it will be subject to change based on entries. Start time on both days will be Gym opening at 7.30am and Climbing starting at 8.30am. Finish time on the Sunday will be 4pm.
Opens and Para climbers understand that their Qualifiers may start as early as 8.30am on the Saturday when they are planning travel arrangements.Â
Youth B will compete in Sunday as they did last year.
Climbing New Zealand is pleased to announce the selection of 4 athletes to compete at the FISU World University Climbing Championships to be held in Innsbruck, Austria from the 14th to the 17th of June 2022. This will be the first time New Zealand has been represented at this event in many years and we hope to see this as a regular opportunity for University age athletes in the future with the event held every two years.
Thanks for the support from UTSNZ and FISU for making this event possible.
Alexander Kiechle-Cornish, University of Auckland Tayla Manning, University of Auckland Tom Waldin, University of Canterbury Phoebe Kenderdine, University of Otago
Short bios from each athlete are listed below.
Alexander Kiechle-Cornish
Alex is in his final semester at the University of Auckland studying a conjoint degree in Statistics, Finance & Economics. He has been competing in CNZ competitions for over 5 years and is looking forward to competing internationally for NZ.
Tayla Manning
My name is Tayla Manning and I’m a sport climber from New Plymouth, Taranaki. I’m nineteen and currently in my second year of studying at the University of Auckland towards a Bachelor of Health Sciences/Bachelor of Science Conjoint degree. I’ve been competitively climbing since I was about fourteen and have been passionate and loving the sport ever since. In this time, I have won around nine national titles across all three disciplines of lead, speed, and bouldering. I have represented New Zealand at Oceania Climbing Champs, Australian National Climbing Champs, and at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy. Climbing is such a big passion of mine and so I’m super stoked to have another opportunity to represent New Zealand at the 2022 FISU World University Championship for Sport Climbing.
Tom Waldin
Tom has recently graduated from the University of Canterbury with a Bachelor of Engineering (Hons) and begun a job as a civil engineer. He has been climbing for close to nine years and has competed in a variety of competitions overseas, including Youth World Championships, Open World Cup events, and Open World Championships. Tom is the current and three time New Zealand Open Bouldering Champion.
Phoebe Kenderdine
I’m 19 years old and I’m studying a Bachelor of Arts and Sciences at Otago University, majoring in Anthropology and Ecology. I have been climbing for around 4 years, and competing for 3. Before then I did a range of very random sports, including karate, circus, and dance. I had the privilege of attending the IFSC Youth World Championships in Arco in 2019, alongside Tayla Manning. Climbing is a huge part of my life and I’m passionate about getting more people into climbing in New Zealand.
Following the La Sportiva National Speed Championships on the 5th of February the following athletes have been selected into the Climbing New Zealand Development Squads for 2022.
Open Female: Sarah Tetzlaff Open Male: Julian David, Flynn Chisholm, Antony Death Juniors Female: Abby Gebert (exceptional circumstances) Youth A Female: Meredith Butcher (conditional) Youth A Male: Julian David, Antony Death, Flynn Chisholm, Ned Johnston Youth B Female: Mischa Boorman
Congratulations to those selected.
Richard Waldin For Climbing New Zealand Selection Committee.
According to the CNZ Selection Policy an athlete wishing to be considered for New Zealand Team selection in 2022, but unable to compete, can apply to be considered for discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances.
The selection policy sets out examples for reasons where exceptional circumstances will be considered.Â
In all cases athletes wishing to be considered for selection under exceptional circumstances still need to apply to CNZ to be included in the selection process.
You need to make your application to  as soon as possible with a cut off date of Thursday the 10th of February 2022.
Please ensure that your application asks for Discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances and provides the following information:
Athlete Name:
Athlete DOB:
Event – e.g Speed Championships:
Reason for seeking discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances:
Send all related information on recent and previous performances, all current or recent climbing activities, any injury, illness and recovery information, climbing goals and anything related that may assist the selectors.
Note: Attendance and performance at prior recent CNZ National Championship events will be expected.
How does selection work when dealing with exceptional circumstances cases with Speed events?
Athletes are likely to require proof of performance (e.g. demonstrate ability to meet the qualifying times) prior to being selected to compete in Speed as part of a New Zealand Team.
What is your personal best time? Are you chasing a New Zealand Record on the Speed wall?
Register today for this event. It is open to all climbers, whether you have attempted Speed before or not.
The event is on the 5th of February, at Blake Park, Mount Maunganui.
This event will crown our National Speed Champions for 2021/2022. Climbers wishing to compete in Speed at international events in 2022 need to be competing to be eligible for selection.
Refer to the registration page here for event details and to complete your registration.
NOTE: COVID-19 Requirements. All athletes, officials and spectators over the age of 12 at this event must have and show their vaccine pass.
Initial Selections (posted and notified 9.30am, 21/12/2021)
Finalised and Notified 8th January 2022.
Following the CNZ Open Bouldering Championships, the following athletes have been selected into the Open Development Squad for 2022.
There were no changes to the selections on appeal.
Selected Athletes
Open Female
Erica Gatland
Open Female
Amanda Speed
Open Female
Cirrus Tan
Open Female
Phoebe Kenderdine
Open Female
Sarah Tetzlaff
Discretionary
Open Female
Rochelle Andrews
Discretionary
Open Female
Abby Gebert
Discretionary
Open Female
Tayla Manning
Discretionary
Open Female
Miriam Bright
Discretionary
Open Female
Lucy Sinclair
Discretionary
Open Male
Tom Waldin
Open Male
Enzo Murray
Open Male
Jake Townshend
Open Male
Henry Booker
Open Male
Oskar Wolff
Discretionary
Open Male
George Sanders
Discretionary
Open Male
Alexander Kiechle-Cornish
Discretionary
Reminder of the criteria for selections:
Automatic selection of the top 25% of the eligible athletes invited to be a member of the 2021/22 NZ Open Development Squad. Discretionary selections can also be made, refer to the policy for details.
Climbing New Zealand selection processes are documented in our selection policy page on our website, please refer to this in the first instance if you have questions.The actual policy document is on our web page here.
