Climbing New Zealand

Selection Policy

At our management committee meeting on the 29th of July the new Climbing New Zealand selection policy was ratified. The new policy can be accessed on the website here. Selection Policy Page.

With the adoption of the new selection policy Climbing New Zealand introduce a new climbing season for our events. The new season will run from September to April of the following year.

New age groups for CNZ events (excluding Schools events) come into effect from the 1st of September 2020.

This change in age groups is a key change to ensure that athletes seeking selection compete fairly against each other in selection events. By way of example selection events to select the New Zealand Teams and Development Squads for the 2021 year has climbers competing in their 2021 age category from 1 September 2020.

CNZ events in 2020 that are included in the new season:

CNZ Open Boulder Championships 2020

This event is open to any climber who is 15 years or older on the date of the event, specific provision in the new Selection Policy. Event date is 19th of September, registration will open shortly.

Youth and Masters Bouldering Championship 2020

This re-scheduled event is scheduled for the 31st of October and 1st of November 2020. The event is being hosted by the Dynomites club at Hangdog in Wellington.

Please study the new age categories carefully to understand how this change affects you.

CNZ Age Categories for CNZ events between 1st of September 2020 and 30th April 2021 (new season):

Masters – born during 1986 or earlier
Opens   –  born during 2005 or earlier (but must be at least 15 on the date of the event)
Para-climbers – born during 2005 or earlier
Juniors – born during 2002/2003
Youth A – born during 2004/2005
Youth B – born during 2006/2007
Youth C – born during 2008/2009
Youth D – born during 2010 (or later)

We will provide more information on the overall selection process ahead of the new season events.

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand
president@climbing.nz

National Secondary Schools Climbing Championship 2020

Due to Covid-19 restrictions this event has been cancelled

Climbing New Zealand is pleased to be able to bring together this National Secondary Schools event in 2020. The event will be held on the 31^st of August and 1^st of September at Extreme Edge Panmure, Auckland.

The event has two categories junior and senior for both male and female. The format is a combined format featuring all three climbing disciplines Speed, Bouldering and Roped Climbing (Top Rope format for this event).

There will be awards for the top climbers in each category, top school overall and top school in speed climbing.

Senior category finals will be live streamed on the Tuesday afternoon, there will also be a video summary of the event produced. Thanks to SkySport Next and the New Zealand Sports Collective.

Thanks to Extreme Edge Panmure and our team of Climbing New Zealand and Auckland Sport Climbing Association volunteer organisers.

Details of the event and the registration process are available here. Event Information and Registration Registrations close on August 14th.

https://www.sky.co.nz/sky-sport-next.

Climbing is a fast growing sport and recreation for all ages. In 2021 Sport Climbing will have its Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020.

I am pleased to announce that we have been able to re-schedule the National Lead Championships, postponed from May. Event to be held at Extreme Edge Panmure, Auckland on the 15th and 16th of August 2020.

Note: This event is not a qualification event for New Zealand Team selection for 2021. More information to come on selection process with a Lead event in early 2021 to be scheduled.

Register here.

We have also confirmed the following events are to go ahead as scheduled.

• 31 Aug/1 Sept NZ Secondary Schools National Championship 2020 – Panmure Extreme Edge, Auckland. Contact your school about attending this event.
• 19 Sept – CNZ National Open Bouldering Championships 2020 – Northern Rocks, Glenfield, Auckland

We are continuing to seek a revised date for the Youth and Masters Bouldering Championship later in the year.

We look forward to seeing you all at these upcoming events. All the best for your training and preparation.

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

To: Climbing New Zealand Athletes and Supporters
From: Richard Waldin, Climbing New Zealand President

This is my first opportunity to formally share updates with you since my election to the President’s role in April 2020. There has been a lot to catch up on and plenty of challenges at present for all sports and sporting organisations. Thank you all for your continuing support for your Clubs, your Gyms and Climbing New Zealand.

I am pleased to announce new Management Committee members, Jacob Dodds, Secretary, Amanda Speed, Athlete’s Rep., and Lara Whiting, Auckland Sport Climbing Club representative. Full Management Committee list is on our website here.

David Sanders, outgoing President remains heavily involved in the sport, David along with Sarah Hay are our representatives on the IFSC Oceania Council and David continues to be our liaison with the IFSC. David is also engaged with our new competitions sub-committee preparing for our competitions in 2020.

We have also confirmed our Selection Panel for 2020. Rob Moore, Peter Lofthouse and Fabrizio Facchini are our selectors with Ian Hallam the Panel Convenor.

I am also pleased to confirm the return of our key competition sponsors Rab and The North Face for 2020. Please support these brands that support our Sport.

While we have already had to withdraw our involvement in the IFSC World Youth Climbing Championships (this event has now been formally cancelled) and our involvement in other international events this year is uncertain, I do want to recognise all the athletes who have been selected to New Zealand Teams in 2020. The team lists are all on our website under the NEW ZEALAND TEAM heading.

On the domestic front, we did manage to have a successful Speed Climbing Championship event in early March. Several speed records were set, and congratulations to our Open Champions Kade Allan and Amanda Speed. Full results are on PIKI here. All speed records are now listed on the website here.

With COVID-19 alert level at 2 and athletes back into the Gyms (and onto the Crags) we are now starting to consider what competitions we can organise in 2020. There is much to consider as we work through the issues. To assist us, we are surveying climbers and parents to gauge opinions. Please contact your local club if you have not seen the survey.

We have had good news with the confirmation of the Oceania Open Combined Championships (Olympic Qualification Event) now confirmed for the 19^th and 20^th of December 2020.

We welcome your feedback, thoughts and ideas – engage with your local club, contact any member of the Climbing New Zealand Management Committee or contact me directly.

Kind Regards

Richard

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand
0274 972 677
president@climbing.nz
www.climbing.nz

Climbing New Zealand – National Selection Panel Member

We are seeking expressions of interest from suitability qualified individuals for a role on the National Selection Panel. This role operates as a part of a panel of 3 selectors, the other two being the current National Youth Coach and current Opens Coach. The selection panel selects Youth, Open and Para teams and development squads, guided by the Selection Policy.

Key attributes:

• A passion for the sport of Sport Climbing, and a desire to it grow and thrive in New Zealand;
• Ability to work with young athletes and identify talent;
• Ability to analyse results and apply quantitative and qualitative assessments as required;
• Exceptional interpersonal communication skills;
• Highly respected amongst the Climbing community;
• Understanding of IFSC international regulations and rules of the Sport.

Expectations:

• Able to attend National qualifying competitions and events as required.
• Participate in selection meetings or online calls.
• Support meeting key decision timelines.

This is an un-paid volunteer role, with expenses reimbursed. Appointment is for one year to appoint teams for 2021.

Please submit expressions of interest with background and qualifications to secretary@climbing.nz by the 20^th of May 2020, or contact Richard Waldin on 0274972677 for more information

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

After consultation with the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), the Oceania Council has announced that the Oceania Combined Championships which was postponed from March 2020 will take place on the 19th and 20th of December 2020.

See attached communication from the Oceania Council.

Dear members, friends,

Hello from UK where I am in 12-week isolation with mum and dad helping them get through the crisis.

With the lockdown restrictions in place in NZ and amid the rapidly evolving Covid-19 pandemic CNZ management committee recognises the importance of keeping you all promptly informed and updated on our action plans for the coming months.

A quorum of the committee met yesterday (Sunday eve) and we would like to update you on the following:

National Events 2020

·         Lead has been postponed with no date fixed as yet. 

·         We have yesterday, made the decision to postpone Youth and Masters Bouldering until later in the year – on top of health and safety concerns, the lockdown means that athletes’ training schedules are severely affected. 

·         Open Bouldering – we will make a decision at least six-weeks before the date (end of July).

Other Events

·         World Youth Champs – IFSC has made no decision to postpone/cancel yet and has announced no cut-off date for a decision. Dion will be communicating directly with team members as news comes through. I understand that this is not reassuring and appreciate the logistical difficulties families are facing as well as the negative impact on athlete training that this uncertainty effects

·         Oceania Champs – is postponed until Oceania Council has a date for the Tokyo Olympics (2021). So we are waiting on the IOC for this one sorry.

·         World Cups – events scheduled for April, May and June are postponed

·          Aus Youth Champs – is still scheduled for end of May with no official announcement yet of postponement. Again Dion will be in touch.

·         NCAL – no news

Training at home

I know that a lot of you will be following training programs at home and I hope you’re finding fun things to do! Rob and Sarah T are planning on putting together a short video this week which we’ll put up on our FB. Just a reminder though for those of you who are under 16 to particularly avoid campus board/fingerboard exercises especially with weights. Look after your precious fingers guys! 

Selection Policy Review

New committee member Mike Birchler (Dynomites), Rob and Pete are meeting this week to get this process underway. I do acknowledge that it has been a difficult and challenging policy to implement and appreciate all your feedback over the past few months. 

AGM

Just a reminder that the AGM will be held by Skype Sunday April 19th. All are welcome. Shane will be arranging a link to join the meeting. We have changed the start time – it will now be 8pm NZT (gives me a chance to wake up!). Nominations for Exec and Athlete Rep are now open and will close midnight April 9th. Please send nominations and any supporting statements (eg. bios) to Shane – secretary@climbing.nz

Finally I hope you’re all safe and well and I’m looking forward to seeing you all later on in the year!

David Sanders

President 

Climbing New Zealand

www.climbing.nz +64273737336

Saturday 7th March

9.00am Technical meeting – athletes and team managers

9.30am Youth C and D Warm up

10.00am Youth C and D Practice

10.30am Youth C and D Qualification

11.00am Youth C and D Final

12.00pm Youth C and D Prize giving

Route reset for remaining categories

11:30am Youth B/A/Junior/Masters Warmup

12.30pm Youth B/A/Junior/Masters Practice

1.30pm YB/YA/Junior/Masters Qualification

2.30pm YB/YA/Junior/Masters Final

3.00pm Opens Warm-up

4.00pm Opens Practice

5.00pm Opens Qualifications

6.00pm Finals

7.00pm Prize Giving

Congratulations to Di Drayton and Rachel Maia who have been selected to represent NZ at international paraclimbing events in 2020.

David Sanders
President 
Climbing New Zealand