Climbing New Zealand

According to the CNZ Selection Policy an athlete wishing to be considered for New Zealand Team selection in 2024, but unable to compete, can apply to be considered for discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances.

The selection policy sets out examples for reasons where exceptional circumstances will be considered.

In all cases athletes wishing to be considered for selection (initially to the development squad) under exceptional circumstances still need to apply to CNZ to be included in the selection process.

You need to make your application to Selection@climbing.nz as soon as possible with a cut off date of Monday the 18th of September 2023.

Please state:

Athlete Name:

Athlete DOB:

Event e.g Open Bouldering Championships

Send all related information on recent and previous performances, all current or recent climbing activities, any injury, illness and recovery information, climbing goals and anything related that may assist the selectors.

Note: Attendance and performance at prior recent CNZ National Championship events will be expected.

How does selection work when dealing with exceptional circumstances cases?

According to the selection policy there are a range of approaches that the selectors can take to rank athletes who missed a selection event alongside others. The aim is to ensure the process is as fair as possible for all athletes.

According to the selection policy:

Appendix 2

Effect of exemption

If the CNZ Committee has granted an application for Exceptional Circumstances, the Selection Committee may adjust the points to be awarded to the athlete using one or more of the following:

• If the athlete has missed a National Championship, award the athlete points equal to:

o Their placing at the previous National Championships they competed in, in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline, or

o The points they were awarded at the Selection Camp in that discipline, or

o The average of the points awarded to other athletes under Appendix 1 in respect of the National Championship in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

The event will be held in Melbourne 24-26 November, with setting commencing on the 23rd.  

Accomodation and flights will be provided for one route setter and one judge if there is a suitably qualified candidate available. They will be working with Tim Hatch (GBR) as Jury President and Reini Fichtinger (AUT) as Chief Route Setter and there will be opportunities to participate in training around the event.  

I can answer any questions directly or they can put them in the last section of the form.  

Route Setters:

2023 Oceania Qualifier – Route Settersdocs.google.com

Judges:

2023 Oceania Qualifier – Officialsdocs.google.com

Regards, 

Naomi Cleary

President Oceania Council

naomi.cleary@ifsc-climbing.org

+61 417 251 942

In this update:

Updates for the new season (2023/24) – Event Changes.
Updates for the new season – Club Membership and Event Entry Fees.
IFSC World Championships are on in Bern, Switzerland.

Updates for the new season (2023/24)

We have some changes to share for the new season.

We have taken the decision to change some of events this season to help us make events more sustainable, address logistical issues and create additional climbing opportunities.

1. La Sportiva Open Bouldering Championships (Sept 16th, Northern Rocks, Auckland). This event will run to the traditional IFSC format with one qualification round (5 problems, 5mins on, 5mins off) and a finals round of 4 problems (6 climbers). We are also looking to introduce a Open B and Youth B Boulder Jam that will run between rounds. The Boulder Jam will use some of the qualification boulders (6-8 with or without modification). Exact number of boulders included will be determined on the day. The Boulder Jam will occur across a 90 minute to 2 hour period (depending on scheduling and entry numbers). There are no finals for the Open B and Youth B categories.
2. La Sportiva Youth and Masters Bouldering Championships (venue and date TBC) will be organised and run to the same format at last year following the IFSC rules for Youth Bouldering. No change on last season.
3. La Sportiva Speed Championships. (Blake Park, Mount Maunganui, date TBC)
4. La Sportiva Youth and Masters Lead Championships (venue and date TBC). This event will run separate to an Open Lead event. The schedule for the event will change with all qualifications occurring on the Saturday and all finals occurring on the Sunday. This change is to reduce the pressures on the route setters and make the overall event more manageable. We expect that the event will be completed by early afternoon on the Sunday.
5. La Sportiva Open Lead Championships and Selection event. This is a new event for Open Championships. In additional to this event crowning our Open Lead Champions, it will also double as a selection event for athletes seeking selection into the New Zealand Team for the IFSC Youth World Championships. Junior and Youth A athletes will be expected to compete in Opens. Youth B athletes will also compete on some of the lead routes as a trial and selection event. More details on how the selection event will be organised will be shared once the Selection Policy has been reviewed and updated.

In May 2023 we undertook a review of club membership costs and event registration fees in response to feedback from the clubs.

New club membership model

To simply the model and reduce the administrative burden on clubs the previous variable fee attached the membership has been removed and this fee will be added to the entry fee for each event. The per event levy will be $30 per athlete per event, the same as what was previously levied against the clubs.

To support the principles defined above we propose the following membership and fees structure:

Club membership will be simplified to the following:

1. Each club is charged a fix fee with a two tiered model to support the smaller clubs and support entry of new clubs.

This model will make it easier for new clubs to join CNZ and have athletes compete for their clubs.

How the model works:

• All established clubs with greater than 5 competition climbers are charged $500 per year.
• Clubs with 5 or less competition climbers are charged $200 per year.
• A new club would be charged $100 in the first full year, and then graduate to either $200 or $500 in the second full year depending the number of competitors from the club in the previous year. If a club joins during the calendar year this initial part year will be charged at $100.
• Clubs can opted to be billed once or twice a year, first billing will occur in April after the AGM.
• Club membership fees are set at the AGM each year so are reviewed annually.

Implementation

While the fees are fixed each year at the AGM we can make some adjustments to members and fees as a Management Committee, as we did in 2020 when we reduced the club costs by 50% due to Covid-19.

The new model will apply for the second payment period in 2023, aligning with the new event fee structure for the 2023/24 season.

Event Fees

The previous $30 levy per competition entry against the clubs will now be charged direct to the athlete at the time of event registration (as documented above).

Should a club wish to subsidise any part of the event fee, they can do this by submitting all their club entries via a spreadsheet and become responsible for any recovery from the athletes.

The following event entry fees are confirmed for the 2023 /24 season, based on the revised model

Event	Athlete Fee – Early Bird	Total Fee with CNZ Levy	Athlete Fee – Regular	Total Fee with CNZ Levy
Lead or Bouldering Event	65	95	75	105
Speed Event	20	30	30	40
Additional Category at same competition (not applicable for the coming season)	30		30

IFSC World Championships, Bern, Switzerland, August 1st to 12th of August.

We have our speed team (Julian, Flynn, Sarah, Abby, Jorja) and Para-athlete Rachel Maia in action at this event. The speed team have had a great build up with multi NZ records from Julian, Sarah and Abby (Junior records) in the last two World Cup events.

Track the updates to NZ records here

Follow the World Championships schedule at this link:

https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/archives/2-uncategorised/874-bern-2023-schedule

Speed Squad sets records in Korea
Rachel starts her build up to the IFSC World Para-climbing Championships
Youth Team head to Australian Youth Championships

Speed Records in Seoul

Epic effort from our four speed climbers taking the silver fern to Seoul, Korea, 28th to 30th of April in the first Speed Climbing World Cup of the year.

And a shout out to Sarah and Julian for setting New Zealand records! Julian also set an Oceania record.

Congrats to Sarah Tetzlaff with a time of 9.564 seconds! And to Julian David with a time of 6.43!

Rachel competes at IFSC Para-climbing World Cup

Rachel starts her build up to the IFSC World Para-climbing Championships with the first IFSC Para-climbing World Cup in Salt Lake City 16th and 17th of May. Follow Rachel’s progress on the IFSC website.

Youth Team head to Australian Youth Championships

The 2023 Youth Championships will be held from 18th to 21st May in  Sydney. The venues will be Nomad for boulder (18th and 19th) and Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Villawood for lead (20th and 21st May ).

We have a team of 20 athletes heading to Sydney this week at compete in the Australian Youth National Championships, best of luck to all the team.

William McKnight, Meredith Butcher, Lucy Sinclair, Sophia Cook, Finlay Cate, Nathan Clapperton,  Spencer Menzies, Laura Townshend,  Grace Hansen, Dixie Whiting, Luka Sugimoto-Faulkner, Jasmine Arnold-Clark, Robert Rider, Fletcher McGrath,  Tristan Jayasuriya, Fia Warburton, Manaia Johnston, Charlotte Chinn, Ayla Radley,  Yume Fookes.