Climbing New Zealand

In this newsletter..

Lead event registration is open plus discretionary selection process

National Speed Championship – Results
New PIKI system is live
Congratulations to Rob and Rachel
What is ahead in 2023

La Sportiva Lead and Para-climbing registration is open

Registrations are now open for the La Sportiva National Lead and Para-climbing Championships is now open . Event is held on the 4th and 5th of March 2023 in Christchurch.

Register on the CNZ Website at this link:

CNZ National Lead A Championships 2025

For athletes who may need to consider applying for discretionary selection, please refer to this post:

Applications for discretionary selection due to exceptional circumstances Lead and Para-climbing Championships 2022 2023

La Sportiva Speed National Championships – Results

Mount Maunganui brought out the sunshine, BOPSCA organised the event and the athletes put on a show. Amazing results, with new National records set in 9 categories, and plenty of personal best times on top of that. Thanks to our sponsors La Sportiva, RAB, The North Face and Black Diamond.

Congratulations to all our champions for 2022 2023:

Open Female: Sarah Tetzlaff – new national record 10.11
Open Male: Julian David – new national record 6.58
Junior Female: Abby Gebert – new national record 10.54
Junior Male: Julian David – new national record 6.58
Youth A Female: Mischa Boorman – new national record 11.00
Youth A Male: Isaac Rose
Youth B Female: Caitlyn Fortescue
Youth B Male: Thomas Sorenson (event winner William Morton, New Caledonia)
Youth C Female: Mila Piatek – new national record 8.94
Youth C Male: Rio Piatek
Youth D Female: Yume Fookes – new national record 11.50
Youth D Male: Stig Zhou – new national record 11.02

PIKI Results System Upgrade

We have been very fortunate to have had the support of Lisia and Geoff who wrote the PIKI system for Climbing New Zealand a number of years ago. As is often the case time catches up with any technology and the existing system was destined for end of life year. We did a search for a system to replace PIKI and when we came up short, Lisia and Geoff step in to re-write it for us to allow the system to be sustained going forward. A huge thank you for their support.

To access Climbing New Zealand Results, link to this site:

https://piki.trainingsims.com/#CNZ/event

Congratulations to…..

Congratulations to Rob Moore, Climbing New Zealand Speed Programme Director and Coach, who has been awarded with a High Performance Sport New Zealand, Prime Minister’s scholarship for coaching. This is a two year scholarship to support his coaching of our High Performance speed team.

We also congratulate Rachel Maia for stellar year in 2022, making 3 World Cup finals including a silver medal at the Salt Lake City World Cup event back in June 2022, a first for New Zealand Climbing. Rachel was nominated by Climbing New Zealand for a Halberg Award, and while Rachel did not make the finals (always a tough ask in an Olympic and Commonwealth Games year) we are all very proud of her and having had her nominated.

What is ahead in 2023, International Competitions:
Australian Youth Nationals – May or June TBC
IFSC World Championships, Bern Switzerland (Open Athletes), early August
IFSC World Cups (Opens and Para-climbing) – throughout the year.
IFSC World Youth Championships, South Korea, late August
IFSC Oceania Olympic Qualification Event – November 23-25, venue TBC. (Open Athletes) Speed and Boulder-Lead Combined.

Richard Waldin
President, Climbing New Zealand

According to the CNZ Selection Policy an athlete wishing to be considered for New Zealand Team selection in 2023, but unable to compete, can apply to be considered for discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances.

The selection policy sets out examples for reasons where exceptional circumstances will be considered.

In all cases athletes wishing to be considered for selection (initially to the development squad) under exceptional circumstances still need to apply to CNZ to be included in the selection process.

You need to make your application to  as soon as possible with a cut off date of Monday the 6th of March 2023.

Please state:

Athlete Name:

Athlete DOB:

Event e.g Lead and Para-climbing Championships:

Send all related information on recent and previous performances, all current or recent climbing activities, any injury, illness and recovery information, climbing goals and anything related that may assist the selectors.

Note: Attendance and performance at prior recent CNZ National Championship events will be expected.

How does selection work when dealing with exceptional circumstances cases?

According to the selection policy there are a range of approaches that the selectors can take to rank athletes who missed a selection event alongside others. The aim is to ensure the process is as fair as possible for all athletes.

According to the selection policy:

Appendix 2

Effect of exemption

If the CNZ Committee has granted an application for Exceptional Circumstances, the Selection Committee may adjust the points to be awarded to the athlete using one or more of the following:

• If the athlete has missed a National Championship, award the athlete points equal to:

o Their placing at the previous National Championships they competed in, in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline, or

o The points they were awarded at the Selection Camp in that discipline, or

o The average of the points awarded to other athletes under Appendix 1 in respect of the National Championship in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

We are currently taking registrations for the 2022 2023 La Sportiva National Speed Championships.

Register HERE.

Have not done Speed Climbing before and would like to give it a go, come along on the day, watch New Zealand’s very best and perhaps even join the “novice – give it a go category” that we will be running.

Notified 5pm, Friday 9th of December.

Following the La Sportiva Youth and Masters Bouldering Championships at Uprising, Christchurch on the 3rd and 4th of December the following athletes have been selected into the Youth Development Squad for 2022 / 2023.

Junior Female:

Bella Domaneschi
Abby Gebert

Junior Male:

Oskar Wolff
Fin Newton-Howes
Julian  David
Henry Booker

Youth A Female

Lucy Sinclair
Rebecca Hounsell
Meredith Butcher
Azaria Briscoe
Mischa Boorman
Sophia  Cook

Youth A Male:

Fynn Marno-Simpson
Mac Duggan
Finlay Cate
Kesha Cerna
Kieran Death
Spencer Menzies
Fergus Richards
Grayson Meaclem (Discretionary)
Nat Warburton (Discretionary)

Youth B Female:

Jasmine Arnold-Clark
Dixie Whiting
Grace Hansen
Katie Chinn
Xanthe Saunders
Alisa Schenk

Youth B Male:

Luka Sugimoto-Faulkner
Will Browne
Robert Rider
AJ Magness
Jamie Birchler
Cooper Gibson
Thomas Sorensen
Teo Besier (discretionary)
Conrad  Bolger (discretionary)

Youth C Female:

Fia Warburton
Manaia Johnston
Evie Cook

Youth C Male:

Tristan Jayasuriya
Fletcher McGrath
Samba Goyal
Leon Cotton
Xavier Wasek-Webb

Youth D Female:

Ayla Radley
Anna Evans
Yume Fookes

Youth D Male:

Tobin  Priestley
Huxley Bolger

Any athletes wishing to appeal the selection process, appeals need to be made within 2 working days of this post being notified to all climbers. Please ensure that you refer to the section 7 of the selection policy, and send any appeal to .

Reminder of the criteria for selections:

Athletes need to be eligible for selection, which means being a member of a Climbing New Zealand Affiliated Club and being eligible to hold a New Zealand passport.

Automatic selection of the top 40% of the eligible athletes invited to be a member of the 2022/23 NZ Youth Development Squad. Discretionary selections can also be made, refer to the policy for details.

Climbing New Zealand selection processes are documented in our selection policy page on our website, please refer to this in the first instance if you have questions. The actual policy document is on our web page here.

Being selected into the Development Squad makes the athlete eligible to seek New Zealand Team selection in 2023.

Congratulations to those selected.

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

According to the CNZ Selection Policy an athlete wishing to be considered for New Zealand Team selection in 2023, but unable to compete, can apply to be considered for discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances.

The selection policy sets out examples for reasons where exceptional circumstances will be considered.

In all cases athletes wishing to be considered for selection (initially to the development squad) under exceptional circumstances still need to apply to CNZ to be included in the selection process.

You need to make your application to  as soon as possible with a cut off date of Monday the 5th of December 2022.

Please state:

Athlete Name:

Athlete DOB:

Event e.g Youth and Masters Bouldering:

Send all related information on recent and previous performances, all current or recent climbing activities, any injury, illness and recovery information, climbing goals and anything related that may assist the selectors.

Note: Attendance and performance at prior recent CNZ National Championship events will be expected.

How does selection work when dealing with exceptional circumstances cases?

According to the selection policy there are a range of approaches that the selectors can take to rank athletes who missed a selection event alongside others. The aim is to ensure the process is as fair as possible for all athletes.

According to the selection policy:

Appendix 2

Effect of exemption

If the CNZ Committee has granted an application for Exceptional Circumstances, the Selection Committee may adjust the points to be awarded to the athlete using one or more of the following:

• If the athlete has missed a National Championship, award the athlete points equal to:

o Their placing at the previous National Championships they competed in, in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline, or

o The points they were awarded at the Selection Camp in that discipline, or

o The average of the points awarded to other athletes under Appendix 1 in respect of the National Championship in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

3rd October: Finalised list post appeals, Jake Townsend added to the squad on appeal.

The following athletes have been selected into the Open Development Squad for 2023 for Bouldering:

Amanda Speed
Bella Domaneschi
Cirrus Tan
Rebecca Hounsell (Discretionary)

Oskar Wolff
Tom Waldin
Sefton Priestley
AJ Goldsmith
Oliver Shanks
Jake Townsend (Discretionary)

Any athletes wishing to appeal the selection process, appeals need to be made within 2 working days of this post being notified to all climbers. Please ensure that you refer to the section 7 of the selection policy, and send any appeal to .

Reminder of the criteria for selections:

Automatic selection of the top 25% of the eligible athletes invited to be a member of the 2022/23 NZ Open Development Squad. Discretionary selections can also be made, refer to the policy for details.

Climbing New Zealand selection processes are documented in our selection policy page on our website, please refer to this in the first instance if you have questions. The actual policy document is on our web page here.

Richard Waldin
President
Climbing New Zealand

The following athletes have been selected into the Final New Zealand Team for the 2022 World Youth Championships. Congratulations to all those selected.

Athlete	Age Group	Lead	Boulder	Speed
Abby Gebert	Junior Female			Yes
Lucy Sinclair	Youth A Female	Yes	Yes
Azaria Briscoe	Youth A Female	Yes	Yes
Meredith Butcher	Youth A Female		 Yes	Yes
Oskar Wolff	Youth A Male	Yes	Yes
Nat Warburton	Youth A Male	Yes
Julian David	Youth A Male			Yes
Flynn Chisholm	Youth A Male			Yes
Antony Death	Youth A Male			Yes
Ned Johnston	Youth A Male			Reserve
Jasmine Arnold-Clark	Youth B Female	Yes
Mischa Boorman	Youth B Female	Reserve	Yes	Yes
Grace Hansen	Youth B Female	Yes
Dixie Whiting	Youth B Female	Yes
Barney Gould	Youth B Male	Yes
Samuel McKnight	Youth B Male	Yes
Harrison Larkin	Youth B Male	Yes

Provisional Team (posted and notified 11.00pm, 22/06/2022)

This post notifies athletes of provisional team for the 2022 World Youth Championships.

Appeal Process:

Any athletes wishing to appeal the selection process, appeals need to be made within 2 days of this post being notified to all climbers. Please ensure that you refer to the section 7 of the selection policy, and send any appeal to . (Deadline: Friday the 24^th of June.)

Following the 2022 Selection Event, the following athletes have been selected into the Provisional New Zealand Team.

Athlete	Age Group	Lead	Boulder	Speed
Abby Gebert	Junior Female			Yes
Lucy Sinclair	Youth A Female	Yes	Yes
Azaria Briscoe	Youth A Female	Yes	Yes
Meredith Butcher	Youth A Female			Yes
Oskar Wolff	Youth A Male	Yes	Yes
Nat Warburton	Youth A Male	Yes
Julian David	Youth A Male			Yes
Flynn Chisholm	Youth A Male			Yes
Antony Death	Youth A Male			Yes
Ned Johnston	Youth A Male			Reserve
Jasmine Arnold-Clark	Youth B Female	Yes
Mischa Boorman	Youth B Female	Reserve	Yes	Yes
Grace Hansen	Youth B Female	Yes
Dixie Whiting	Youth B Female	Yes
Barney Gould	Youth B Male	Yes
Samuel McKnight	Youth B Male	Yes
Harrison Larkin	Youth B Male	Yes

Notes on selection.

There are up to 3 positions available for each age and category at World Youth Championships.

Athletes who did not attend the selection event were not consider for selection beyond the initial ranking.

Rankings Details

Congratulations to all those selected.

According to the CNZ Selection Policy an athlete wishing to be considered for New Zealand Team selection in 2022, but unable to compete, can apply to be considered for discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances. This notification is in relation to the Selection Event scheduled for Sunday the 19th of June.

The selection policy sets out examples for reasons where exceptional circumstances will be considered. 

In all cases athletes wishing to be considered for selection under exceptional circumstances still need to apply to CNZ to be included in the selection process.

You need to make your application to  as soon as possible with a cut off date of Sunday the 19th of June 2022.

Please ensure that your application asks for Discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances and provides the following information:

Athlete Name:

Athlete DOB:

Event – e.g. Selection Camp:

Reason for seeking discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances:

Send all related information on recent and previous performances, all current or recent climbing activities, any injury, illness and recovery information, climbing goals and anything related that may assist the selectors.

Note: Attendance and performance at prior recent CNZ National Championship events will be expected.

Kind Regards

Richard Waldin
President, Climbing New Zealand