The event will be held in Melbourne 24-26 November, with setting commencing on the 23rd.
Accomodation and flights will be provided for one route setter and one judge if there is a suitably qualified candidate available. They will be working with Tim Hatch (GBR) as Jury President and Reini Fichtinger (AUT) as Chief Route Setter and there will be opportunities to participate in training around the event.
I can answer any questions directly or they can put them in the last section of the form.
Updates for the new season (2023/24) – Event Changes. Updates for the new season – Club Membership and Event Entry Fees. IFSC World Championships are on in Bern, Switzerland.
Updates for the new season (2023/24)
We have some changes to share for the new season.
We have taken the decision to change some of events this season to help us make events more sustainable, address logistical issues and create additional climbing opportunities.
La Sportiva Open Bouldering Championships (Sept 16th, Northern Rocks, Auckland). This event will run to the traditional IFSC format with one qualification round (5 problems, 5mins on, 5mins off) and a finals round of 4 problems (6 climbers). We are also looking to introduce a Open B and Youth B Boulder Jam that will run between rounds. The Boulder Jam will use some of the qualification boulders (6-8 with or without modification). Exact number of boulders included will be determined on the day. The Boulder Jam will occur across a 90 minute to 2 hour period (depending on scheduling and entry numbers). There are no finals for the Open B and Youth B categories.
La Sportiva Youth and Masters Bouldering Championships (venue and date TBC) will be organised and run to the same format at last year following the IFSC rules for Youth Bouldering. No change on last season.
La Sportiva Speed Championships. (Blake Park, Mount Maunganui, date TBC)
La Sportiva Youth and Masters Lead Championships (venue and date TBC). This event will run separate to an Open Lead event. The schedule for the event will change with all qualifications occurring on the Saturday and all finals occurring on the Sunday. This change is to reduce the pressures on the route setters and make the overall event more manageable. We expect that the event will be completed by early afternoon on the Sunday.
La Sportiva Open Lead Championships and Selection event. This is a new event for Open Championships. In additional to this event crowning our Open Lead Champions, it will also double as a selection event for athletes seeking selection into the New Zealand Team for the IFSC Youth World Championships. Junior and Youth A athletes will be expected to compete in Opens. Youth B athletes will also compete on some of the lead routes as a trial and selection event. More details on how the selection event will be organised will be shared once the Selection Policy has been reviewed and updated.
In May 2023 we undertook a review of club membership costs and event registration fees in response to feedback from the clubs.
New club membership model
To simply the model and reduce the administrative burden on clubs the previous variable fee attached the membership has been removed and this fee will be added to the entry fee for each event. The per event levy will be $30 per athlete per event, the same as what was previously levied against the clubs.
To support the principles defined above we propose the following membership and fees structure:
Club membership will be simplified to the following:
Each club is charged a fix fee with a two tiered model to support the smaller clubs and support entry of new clubs.
This model will make it easier for new clubs to join CNZ and have athletes compete for their clubs.
How the model works:
All established clubs with greater than 5 competition climbers are charged $500 per year.
Clubs with 5 or less competition climbers are charged $200 per year.
A new club would be charged $100 in the first full year, and then graduate to either $200 or $500 in the second full year depending the number of competitors from the club in the previous year. If a club joins during the calendar year this initial part year will be charged at $100.
Clubs can opted to be billed once or twice a year, first billing will occur in April after the AGM.
Club membership fees are set at the AGM each year so are reviewed annually.
Implementation
While the fees are fixed each year at the AGM we can make some adjustments to members and fees as a Management Committee, as we did in 2020 when we reduced the club costs by 50% due to Covid-19.
The new model will apply for the second payment period in 2023, aligning with the new event fee structure for the 2023/24 season.
Event Fees
The previous $30 levy per competition entry against the clubs will now be charged direct to the athlete at the time of event registration (as documented above).
Should a club wish to subsidise any part of the event fee, they can do this by submitting all their club entries via a spreadsheet and become responsible for any recovery from the athletes.
The following event entry fees are confirmed for the 2023 /24 season, based on the revised model
Event
Athlete Fee – Early Bird
Total Fee with CNZ Levy
Athlete Fee – Regular
Total Fee with CNZ Levy
Lead or Bouldering Event
65
95
75
105
Speed Event
20
30
30
40
Additional Category at same competition (not applicable for the coming season)
30
30
IFSC World Championships, Bern, Switzerland, August 1st to 12th of August.
We have our speed team (Julian, Flynn, Sarah, Abby, Jorja) and Para-athlete Rachel Maia in action at this event. The speed team have had a great build up with multi NZ records from Julian, Sarah and Abby (Junior records) in the last two World Cup events.
Speed Squad sets records in Korea Rachel starts her build up to the IFSC World Para-climbing Championships Youth Team head to Australian Youth Championships
Speed Records in Seoul
Epic effort from our four speed climbers taking the silver fern to Seoul, Korea, 28th to 30th of April in the first Speed Climbing World Cup of the year.
And a shout out to Sarah and Julian for setting New Zealand records! Julian also set an Oceania record.
Congrats to Sarah Tetzlaff with a time of 9.564 seconds! And to Julian David with a time of 6.43!
Rachel competes at IFSC Para-climbing World Cup
Rachel starts her build up to the IFSC World Para-climbing Championships with the first IFSC Para-climbing World Cup in Salt Lake City 16th and 17th of May. Follow Rachel’s progress on the IFSC website.
Youth Team head to Australian Youth Championships
The 2023 Youth Championships will be held from 18th to 21st May in Sydney. The venues will be Nomad for boulder (18th and 19th) and Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Villawood for lead (20th and 21st May ).
We have a team of 20 athletes heading to Sydney this week at compete in the Australian Youth National Championships, best of luck to all the team.
William McKnight, Meredith Butcher, Lucy Sinclair, Sophia Cook, Finlay Cate, Nathan Clapperton, Spencer Menzies, Laura Townshend, Grace Hansen, Dixie Whiting, Luka Sugimoto-Faulkner, Jasmine Arnold-Clark, Robert Rider, Fletcher McGrath, Tristan Jayasuriya, Fia Warburton, Manaia Johnston, Charlotte Chinn, Ayla Radley, Yume Fookes.
Following the La Sportiva Lead and Para-climbing Championships at the YMCA Adventure Centre, Christchurch on the 4th and 5th of March the following listed athletes have been selected into the Youth and Open Development Squads for 2022 / 2023 for Lead.
Any athletes wishing to appeal the selection process, appeals need to be made within 2 working days of this post being notified to all climbers. Please ensure that you refer to the section 7 of the selection policy, and send any appeal to.
Reminder of the criteria for selections:
Athletes need to be eligible for selection, which means being a member of a Climbing New Zealand Affiliated Club and being eligible to hold a New Zealand passport.
Automatic selection of the top 40% of the eligible athletes invited to be a member of the 2022/23 NZ Youth Development Squad. Discretionary selections can also be made, refer to the policy for details.
Automatic selection of the top 25% of the eligible athletes invited to be a member of the 2022/23 NZ Open Development Squad. Discretionary selections can also be made, refer to the policy for details.
Climbing New Zealand selection processes are documented in our selection policy page on our website, please refer to this in the first instance if you have questions.The actual policy document is on our web page here.
Being selected into the Development Squad makes the athlete eligible to seek New Zealand Team selection in 2023.
Open Development Squad
Open Female
Rebecca Hounsell
Kiri Shibahara
Mischa Boorman (discretionary)
Phoebe Kenderdine (discretionary)
Open Male
George Sanders
Jake Townshend
Tom Waldin
Henry Booker
Spencer Menzies
Sefton Priestley
Para-climbing AL2
Rachel Maia
Youth Development Squad
Junior Female:
Kiri Shibahara
Emily Makinson
Junior Male:
Oskar Wolff
William McKnight
Flynn Chisholm
Henry Booker (discretionary)
Antony Death (discretionary)
Youth A Female
Rebecca Hounsell
Sophia Cook
Meredith Butcher
Laura Townshend
Mischa Boorman
Hannah McCall
Lucy Sinclair (discretionary)
Azaria Briscoe (discretionary)
Kayla Muirson (discretionary)
Youth A Male:
Mac Duggan
Finlay Cate
Nathan Clapperton
Spencer Menzies
Nat Warburton
Samuel McKnight
Grayson Meaclem
Fynn Marno-Simpson
Barney Gould – Youth World Championships results (top 40)
Harrison Larkin – Youth World Championships results (top 40)
Climbing New Zealand is please to announce the following athletes who achieved qualification times at the recent La Sportiva National Speed Climbing Championships at Blake Park, Mount Maunganui and are therefore included into the National Development Squads for Speed.
Open Female: Sarah Tetzlaff, Jorja Rangi, Abby Gebert, Mischa Boorman, Meredith Butcher Open Male: Julian David, Flynn Chisholm, Antony Death, Ned Johnston Junior Female: Abby Gebert Junior Male: Julian David, Flynn Chisholm, Antony Death, Ned Johnston Youth A Female: Mischa Boorman, Meredith Butcher Youth A Male: Kieran Death
Congratulations to these athletes.
Results
La Sportiva Speed National Championships – Results
Mount Maunganui brought out the sunshine, BOPSCA organised the event and the athletes put on a show. Amazing results, with new National records set in 9 categories, and plenty of personal best times on top of that. Thanks to our sponsors La Sportiva, RAB, The North Face and Black Diamond.
Congratulations to all our champions for 2022 2023:
Open Female: Sarah Tetzlaff – new national record 10.11 Open Male: Julian David – new national record 6.58 Junior Female: Abby Gebert – new national record 10.54 Junior Male: Julian David – new national record 6.58 Youth A Female: Mischa Boorman – new national record 11.00 Youth A Male: Isaac Rose Youth B Female: Caitlyn Fortescue Youth B Male: Thomas Sorenson (event winner William Morton, New Caledonia) Youth C Female: Mila Piatek – new national record 8.94 Youth C Male: Rio Piatek Youth D Female: Yume Fookes – new national record 11.50 Youth D Male: Stig Zhou – new national record 11.02 Masters Male: Luke Stock – new national record 12.04 Master Female: Cadine Rangi
Review all the current national records please refer to this web page:
Lead event registration is open plus discretionary selection process
National Speed Championship – Results New PIKI system is live Congratulations to Rob and Rachel What is ahead in 2023
La Sportiva Lead and Para-climbing registration is open
Registrations are now open for the La Sportiva National Lead and Para-climbing Championships is now open . Event is held on the 4th and 5th of March 2023 in Christchurch.
La Sportiva Speed National Championships – Results
Mount Maunganui brought out the sunshine, BOPSCA organised the event and the athletes put on a show. Amazing results, with new National records set in 9 categories, and plenty of personal best times on top of that. Thanks to our sponsors La Sportiva, RAB, The North Face and Black Diamond.
Congratulations to all our champions for 2022 2023:
Open Female: Sarah Tetzlaff – new national record 10.11 Open Male: Julian David – new national record 6.58 Junior Female: Abby Gebert – new national record 10.54 Junior Male: Julian David – new national record 6.58 Youth A Female: Mischa Boorman – new national record 11.00 Youth A Male: Isaac Rose Youth B Female: Caitlyn Fortescue Youth B Male: Thomas Sorenson (event winner William Morton, New Caledonia) Youth C Female: Mila Piatek – new national record 8.94 Youth C Male: Rio Piatek Youth D Female: Yume Fookes – new national record 11.50 Youth D Male: Stig Zhou – new national record 11.02
PIKI Results System Upgrade
We have been very fortunate to have had the support of Lisia and Geoff who wrote the PIKI system for Climbing New Zealand a number of years ago. As is often the case time catches up with any technology and the existing system was destined for end of life year. We did a search for a system to replace PIKI and when we came up short, Lisia and Geoff step in to re-write it for us to allow the system to be sustained going forward. A huge thank you for their support.
To access Climbing New Zealand Results, link to this site:
Congratulations to Rob Moore, Climbing New Zealand Speed Programme Director and Coach, who has been awarded with a High Performance Sport New Zealand, Prime Minister’s scholarship for coaching. This is a two year scholarship to support his coaching of our High Performance speed team.
We also congratulate Rachel Maia for stellar year in 2022, making 3 World Cup finals including a silver medal at the Salt Lake City World Cup event back in June 2022, a first for New Zealand Climbing. Rachel was nominated by Climbing New Zealand for a Halberg Award, and while Rachel did not make the finals (always a tough ask in an Olympic and Commonwealth Games year) we are all very proud of her and having had her nominated.
What is ahead in 2023, International Competitions: Australian Youth Nationals – May or June TBC IFSC World Championships, Bern Switzerland (Open Athletes), early August IFSC World Cups (Opens and Para-climbing) – throughout the year. IFSC World Youth Championships, South Korea, late August IFSC Oceania Olympic Qualification Event – November 23-25, venue TBC. (Open Athletes) Speed and Boulder-Lead Combined.
According to the CNZ Selection Policy an athlete wishing to be considered for New Zealand Team selection in 2023, but unable to compete, can apply to be considered for discretionary selection under exceptional circumstances.
The selection policy sets out examples for reasons where exceptional circumstances will be considered.
In all cases athletes wishing to be considered for selection (initially to the development squad) under exceptional circumstances still need to apply to CNZ to be included in the selection process.
You need to make your application to as soon as possible with a cut off date of Monday the 6th of March 2023.
Please state:
Athlete Name:
Athlete DOB:
Event e.g Lead and Para-climbing Championships:
Send all related information on recent and previous performances, all current or recent climbing activities, any injury, illness and recovery information, climbing goals and anything related that may assist the selectors.
Note: Attendance and performance at prior recent CNZ National Championship events will be expected.
How does selection work when dealing with exceptional circumstances cases?
According to the selection policy there are a range of approaches that the selectors can take to rank athletes who missed a selection event alongside others. The aim is to ensure the process is as fair as possible for all athletes.
According to the selection policy:
Appendix 2
Effect of exemption
If the CNZ Committee has granted an application for Exceptional Circumstances, the Selection Committee may adjust the points to be awarded to the athlete using one or more of the following:
If the athlete has missed a National Championship, award the athlete points equal to:
o Their placing at the previous National Championships they competed in, in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline, or
o The points they were awarded at the Selection Camp in that discipline, or
o The average of the points awarded to other athletes under Appendix 1 in respect of the National Championship in the same gender, Age Category and Discipline
Have not done Speed Climbing before and would like to give it a go, come along on the day, watch New Zealand’s very best and perhaps even join the “novice – give it a go category” that we will be running.
Following the La Sportiva Youth and Masters Bouldering Championships at Uprising, Christchurch on the 3rd and 4th of December the following athletes have been selected into the Youth Development Squad for 2022 / 2023.
Junior Female:
Bella Domaneschi Abby Gebert
Junior Male:
Oskar Wolff Fin Newton-Howes Julian David Henry Booker
Luka Sugimoto-Faulkner Will Browne Robert Rider AJ Magness Jamie Birchler Cooper Gibson Thomas Sorensen Teo Besier (discretionary) Conrad Bolger (discretionary)
Youth C Female:
Fia Warburton Manaia Johnston Evie Cook
Youth C Male:
Tristan Jayasuriya Fletcher McGrath Samba Goyal Leon Cotton Xavier Wasek-Webb
Youth D Female:
Ayla Radley Anna Evans Yume Fookes
Youth D Male:
Tobin Priestley Huxley Bolger
Any athletes wishing to appeal the selection process, appeals need to be made within 2 working days of this post being notified to all climbers. Please ensure that you refer to the section 7 of the selection policy, and send any appeal to.
Reminder of the criteria for selections:
Athletes need to be eligible for selection, which means being a member of a Climbing New Zealand Affiliated Club and being eligible to hold a New Zealand passport.
Automatic selection of the top 40% of the eligible athletes invited to be a member of the 2022/23 NZ Youth Development Squad. Discretionary selections can also be made, refer to the policy for details.
Climbing New Zealand selection processes are documented in our selection policy page on our website, please refer to this in the first instance if you have questions.The actual policy document is on our web page here.
Being selected into the Development Squad makes the athlete eligible to seek New Zealand Team selection in 2023.
