Climbing New Zealand
Selection Criteria for New Zealand Representation at Oceania competitions
and World Youth Championships, 2019.
Adapted: 27th April 2018
1. Eligibility
1.1 Eligibility Criteria
To be eligible for the CNZ Youth Team, all athletes must:
– Must complete and sign an Athlete Agreement if selected
– Be a member of a Regional Club affiliated with Climbing New Zealand
– Bouldering – Compete in a minimum of TWO Climbing New Zealand Bouldering competitions in the year previous to the selection year.
– Lead -Â Compete in a minimum of ONE Climbing New Zealand Lead competition in the year previous to the selection year
– Commit to competing in a minimum of three Climbing New Zealand competitions during the selection year in the discipline(s) in which the athlete is
selected for
– Be eligible to hold a New Zealand Passport
It is the responsibility of the athlete and their respective parent / guardian (if applicable) to
ensure that the athlete in question meets the eligibility criteria outlined above.
2. Athlete Selection
2.1 New Zealand Oceania Team Selection
This applies to athletes in all youth and open categories.
The selection of athletes is determined by the ranking of each athlete for their age, as of the
31 st of December of each year. The scores of the best of the minimum number of events
specified in clause 1.1 contribute to the final ranking.
The number of athletes selected in each age category is dependent on the average number of
competitors in National levels events for the event. Where there are an average of four or less
competitors of the same age, the top ranked competitor is selected. Where there are five to
eight competitors, the top two competitors are selected and where there are more than eight
competitors, the top three competitors are selected. For example, a Youth B category may
have 15 competitors, six aged 14 and nine aged 15 at the end of the year. The top two
members aged 14 and top three members aged 15 would be selected.
The ranking for each age is determined by the athlete’s placing in the qualifying rounds and
the final, with a weighting of 50% for the average placing in the qualifying rounds and 50%
for the placing in the finals. For example, an athlete who places third for their age after the
qualifying rounds and wins the final would be given a score of 2 ((3+1)/2). Likewise, the
athlete who is first after the qualifying rounds and comes fifth in the final round would be
given a score of 3 ((1+5)/2).
2.2 Selection for the World Youth Championships
2.2.1 Automatic selection
This applies to athletes in Youth B, Youth A and Junior categories only in the year of World
Youth Championship competition.
Automatic selection applies to:
– Those who reached the semi-finals in their specified event at the World
Youth Climbing Championship in the previous year of competition.
– Those who have placed first or second at the Oceania Championships
in the previous year.
This will apply even where a climber will be competing in a different age category the
following year.
Those selected by this process are still expected to compete in the minimum number of
Climbing New Zealand Competitions in that year, as specified in clause 1.1. They are also
expected to attend the selection event specified in section 2.2.2.
2.2.2 Selection of Team Members not selected automatically
Non-automatic selection is based on performance at a selection event. Only members of the
NZ Oceania team are eligible to attend the selection event. The total number of athletes
selected for each age category must be no more than 4.
2.2.2.1 Lead
The Selection Committee will review these minimum requirements for Lead, Bouldering and
Speed for the NZ Youth Team Trial for 2018. The date for the Trial is March 17th 2018 at
Hangdog, Lower Hutt.
[Under review] Candidates will be required to climb 2 routes each. Selection is based on the
results on one onsight attempt per route. The difficulty of the routes will vary from 24 – 28+,
with specific routes set for age categories. Each route includes the top hold and marked bonus
hold. The following achievements are required for selection:
Category _ Expected Grade Range _ Results Required
Junior Female 24-28 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Junior Male 25-28+ 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth A Female 24-28 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth A Male 25-28+ 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth B Female 24-27 1 Top and 1 Bonus
Youth B Male 24-28 1 Top and 1 Bonus
2.2.2.2 Bouldering
Selection for bouldering will be based on the performance in a World Cup format boulder
competition, with four problems to be completed, each within 5 minutes, with a 5 minute rest
interval between problems. The following performances are required:
Category _ Expected Grade Range _ Results Required
Junior Female V6 – V8 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Junior Male V7 – V8+ 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth A Female V5-V7 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth A Male V6-V8 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth B Female V3-V6 3 Top & 4 Bonus
Youth B Male V5-V7 3 Top & 4 Bonus
2.2.2.3 Speed climbing
PLEASE NOTE: There is currently no Oceania or World Team selection for this discipline
The minimum requirements for Speed have be removed so that we can allow the
development of Speed at the domestic level and enable our climbers to get more experience
at international events.
[Removed]Climbers that wish to compete in the speed event will be required to attempt a
standard speed wall, completing the runs under the allotted time.
Category _ Maximum Time
Junior Female 13 seconds
Junior Male 11 seconds
Youth A Female 14 seconds
Youth A Male 12 seconds
Youth B Female 15 seconds
Youth B Male 13 seconds [End removal]
If the selection event is held in the preceding year to the competition, athletes will be
assessed in accordance to the age group category the athlete will be competing in. For
example, a selection event may be held towards the end of 2016 for selection for the 2017
World Youth Championships. An athlete born in 2001 and is competing in the Youth B
category in 2016 would be assessed as a Youth A Climber, as this is the category the athlete
would be competing in for the proposed competition.
2.3 Multiple Disciplines
Athletes selected for one discipline only at the trial may still compete in the discipline they
were not selected for, providing there are places available, and at the discretion of the
Selection Committee, who will take into account the athletes’ performances at 2018 National
events.
2.4 Selection Review
The New Zealand Head Coach and selection committee reserves the right to reassess the
selection of athletes in cases where:
2.4.1 Athletes have conducted themselves in a manner which is inappropriate and/or
may negatively affect the reputation of Climbing New Zealand.
2.4.2 Injury may limit performance in the events the athlete was selected for.
2.4.3 A significant decrease in effort, training and performance is observed. In this
situation, the athlete will be provided with feedback and an opportunity to resolve any
issue prior to reassessment of selection.
2.4.4 Athlete misses National events without prior discussion with, and approval
from, Team management.
2.4.5 Athlete misses deposit deadlines for payments
2.4.6 Athlete misses training camp without prior discussion with, and approval from,
Team management.
2.4.7 Athlete breaches any other clause of the Athlete Agreement
2.4.8 Athletes deselected on these grounds may be eligible for a refund of monies
already paid to CNZ in relation to 2018 World Youth Championship.
2.5. Discretionary selection
The selection committee can, at their discretion, select additional athletes in cases where:
2.5.1 There is very little difference in athlete ability, as assessed by athlete
rankings for Oceania selection (section 2.1), or performance in the selection event
for athletes not automatically selected for the World Youth Championships
(section 2.2.2).
2.5.2 The likelihood of success for additional athletes is high.
2.5.3 Outstanding athletes were unable to or did not attend selection events.
Special exemption may be granted directly by the selection committee, or in response to an
appeal for selection as detailed in section 4.
3. Selection Committee
The role of the Selection Committee is to review cases for discretionary selection (section
2.5) and to assess appeals from athletes (section 4).
A Selection Committee will comprise of the New Zealand Head Coach and two delegated
members appointed by the CNZ committee.
For 2018 : Rob Moore (Head Coach), Zane Bray (Assistant Coach) and Peter Lofthouse.
CNZ observer at Selection Committee meetings: David Sanders
4. Appeals
Appeals regarding non-selection of athletes can, in the first instance, be lodged in writing to
the Climbing New Zealand Committee. This must be submitted within 21 days of the public
release of teams. If the appellant is dissatisfied with the outcome of the initial appeal, a
further appeal can be lodged with the New Zealand Sports Tribunal.